As multiple woodworkers have mentioned, a drill press as-is is poorly suited to doing woodworking: the cast iron table can transfer grease to the wood; the table is small; the table has limited places to fasten clamps to hold the wood down.
I’ve never assembled a machine tool before, so I was put off by the rust-preventive coating that needs to be cleaned off, through mysterious and inadequately-explained means.
The manual says to remove the gunk with kerosene or some other solvent, and assumes that the reader is a seasoned machinist who knows what in the world they’re talking about.
After much searching, I found that they’re saying basically “it’s covered in grease; use a grease-cutting goo to clean it, then protect it with something”. The most benign thing I found recommended online was oven cleaner or 409. Many folks swore by kerosene (which is highly flammable) or mineral spirits.
So my plan is to clean the parts with 409 then, for the parts that need protection, use the (non-silicone!) wax I bought for the scrollsaw table.
Because the Y axis gantry is designed to glide on the long (4 foot) sides of the X axis bed, it’s very important that the long sides of the X-axis be as parallel as possible. If they vary, the Y accuracy of the CNC machine will vary from one end of the machine to the other.
(November 23: Now that I think about it, because of the way the rail assemblies sit I think any non-parallel error in the sides of the X table will translate into Z axis error rather than Y error. That’s because as the Y gantry loosens its grip on the X axis table, the gantry will tend to drop rather than slip side-to-side. This is a good argument for designs that have only one rail holding the Y gantry, and the other side rolling free side to side. …but the issue with those designs is racking of the Y gantry. So it’s a tossup.)
No matter how careful the cutter at the lumberyard is, the X axis 2’x4′ sheets will likely be a little out of parallel, and you’ll need to recut them. In my case, the width of the X sheet varied by over 1/4″ in 4 feet.
Previously I finished the labels for the glockenspiel. In this post I literally Finish the case.
Last weekend and this weekend are nicely warm enough, so I’ve put a few coats of Minwax gloss polyurethane finish on the Robotic Glockenspiel case. In a few days the finish will be dry, and I can do the final fine-sanding (to remove dust captured in the Finish) and assemble the thing.
P.S., don’t copy my style of finishing – I’ve not learned how to do it well, and here I’ve not done most of what you want to do to make it come out right. I haven’t put down a drop cloth or newspapers to keep the surroundings from being Finished; I haven’t used pinpoint-tip stands to keep the work from sticking to the support table; I haven’t sanded between coats to remove dust/pollen; I’ve sprayed when it was breezier than it should be.
That said, I expect it will turn out well enough for this first-prototype, and functional enough to keep dirt from getting into the wood. (How many times have I said “the end is in sight”?) The end is in sight!
Since trying out woodburned labels, I made another attempt at scrollsawing the button labels for the Robotic Glockenspiel, and am happy enough with the results that I’ve glued the labels to the glockenspiel box. I’m so happy to have finally made up my mind – whew!
So this blog is a sort of “how to scrollsaw” in a nutshell.
First, print out your pattern on paper. Make sure to print outlines rather than solid shapes, because the edges of solid shapes are hard to follow with the scrollsaw’s blade.
Next, use a glue stick and a roller to stick the printed pattern to the wood you want to cut. Some people like to use temporary adhesive, but I’m partial to glue stick. For any closed spaces, drill a hole the size of your scrollsaw blade.
Next, cut the pattern out using your scrollsaw. For any closed spaces, unhook the blade, slide it through the hole you drilled earlier, reattach the blade, then cut the space. By the way, one of the things I love about my new saw (RBI Hawk) is that it’s made to do this sort of “pierced work” very quickly.
Once all the pieces are cut, admire your handiwork for a moment :-)
Next, remove the pattern paper from the cut pieces. If you used temporary adhesive you can peel the paper off. I prefer to sand off the paper because that sanding also removes any glue residue which would interfere with the Finish of the wood.
Once I sanded all the button labels I glued them to the glockenspiel box with white glue (carpenter’s glue) and clamped them down until dry. Observe the lovely result!
Next I can (once the weather warms up) spray a clear finish on the glockenspiel box and reassemble all the hardware.
In my previous post, I scrollsawed labels for the glockenspiel buttons. This morning I tried out pyrography – wood-burning – to label the Robotic Glockenspiel buttons, using a piece of scrap wood of the same material as the Glockenspiel box.
First I transferred the printed image to the wood using carbon paper and a stylus. I tried using an iron to transfer the pattern directly from the laser-printed paper, but found that works best (that is, at all) on inkjet prints rather than laser printing.
Next, I used a wood-burning iron to define the edges, then fill in the spaces. The result is pretty um…”rustic”, but not bad for having done almost no wood-burning before. I’m still deciding whether I’ll go with this (pretty sloppy) or try thinner wood and my scrollsaw.
One advantage I just realized about raised, scrollsawn labels: the icons are simple enough that you can distinguish them with your fingers alone – great for people with visual impairments or for controlling it in the dark.
Since putting a lid on the glockenspiel case, I’ve been wrestling with exactly how to label the robotic glockenspiel buttons: If I had a laser engraver I probably would have engraved (woodburned) the labels on; sticking paper labels on could look pretty sloppy; decals sounded like a production of their own, with the risk of gumming up my printer; painting the labels would require a steady hand; woodburning by hand is another option; so is gluing on scroll-sawn raised labels.
So today I tried out my new (used) RBI Hawk 220 VS scrollsaw, that I’d cleaned up a few weeks ago.
Looking at the result, I don’t think I’ll go with scrollsawn button labels: the labels look good, but I think they need to be more precise and on thinner wood. I’m also concerned that they could pop off the glockenspiel box pretty easily as I move the box about.
By the way, the RBI Hawk is a sweeeet scrollsaw, far better than my old Sakura (knockoff of a Strong-brand saw). Even as old and worn as it is, it makes a really good cut.
The more I look at the scrollsawn labels, the better they look, but I think traced and woodburned labels will work better for the glockenspiel.
Since fixing the sound of the chimes, I’ve been finishing the software for the glockenspiel. Now all the buttons work: on/off, play/pause, skip back, skip forward, and shuffle. Woohoo!
Today I made the lid, attached the molding on the edges of the lid, attached the piano hinge and attached the side hinges. It’s not fine furniture, but I’m learning a lot about how to make The Real Thing. For example, don’t sand the wood with the sandpaper you used to remove rust from your new scrollsaw (ouch!).
All the hardware (except the front latch and the feet, which should install easity) is now installed. So now I’ve taken all the hardware off so I can easily do the labels and spray the finish.
After a pile of routing I’m now nailing and gluing the Robotic Glockenspiel box together. Since this is a first prototype (the flat chime harp is too large to be practical), I’ve made the box sides from 3/4″ x 6″ “white wood” (fir or pine) instead of hardwoods, and made no attempt to conceal the nails.
The base and top of the box are 1/2″ plywood with a nice veneer; the sides are fir/pine. The base is held in place by 1/2″ wide and 3/8″ deep dado joints in each side; the ends are connected via rabbet joints (which you can see in the photo). I’ve routed holes in the front for the 5 buttons that will control the glockenspiel, and scroll-sawn holes in the back to plug in power and usb cables. I also used a flush trim router bit to make all the sides the same height (for some reason one of the boards I bought was about 1/16″ wider than the other).
I’d hoped to plug/unplug the SD card from the back, but found the thickness of the box walls would require a huge hole to get to the SD card. So instead I cut a small hole, then decided to plug/unplug the SD card from the inside.
I plan to connect the lid via a 30″ cabinet hinge from Lowes. I’ve routed out an indentation in the back of the box so the hinge will be flush with the top of the box.
Since this weekend is the end of my end-of-year vacation, progress on the glockenspiel will likely be a lot slower from now on.
The next step is to drill all the mounting holes, put a clear finish on the box, then mount the chimes and circuit inside the box. I plan to figure out the lid later.
Et proiectus est talpa – "and the mole was cast out"